Longford author's book ‘an engrossing read’ and an ideal Christmas gift

It must be about seventy-five technology-free years ago that I first became aware of Cairn Hill – or, in the colloquial, Corn Hill. On a bright summer day (weren’t they all like that back then?) somebody came up with the bright idea that we’d cycle to the curious landmark in what was to us townies the terra incognita of North Longford.

Time and fading memory masks their faces but I suspect they included my lifelong friends, Hughie Brennan and Eamon Glennon, God be good to them. This was not a high-minded expedition to learn more about our ancient history. Just something “different” to fill in another sunny day rather than the usual spin to the Shannon at Tarmonbarry.

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The foray did take place, but without me. I can’t remember why, but I do remember the sense of loss I felt when they returned with stories of muscle-tightening hills, cadging drinks of cooling spring water along the way and the gastronomic delights of warm sandwiches and bottles of red lemonade consumed while sprawled against the historic cairn.

It was, however, some consolation that I had my own regular Neolithic monument- a ring fort in a field mearing my uncle’s farm in the parish of Ardagh. There I spent many summer hours defending the ramparts, not from rampaging Ulstermen or Norsemen but the Apache or Sioux. Which tells its own story about the influences on young minds. The richness of our historic landmarks was far from our thoughts. Ironic, then, that it has taken three quarters of a century to finally have my eyes opened to the extent of that richness.

Such long-buried memories resurfaced when I opened Benny Reid’s remarkable book Out On Our Own, A history of the People and Places of Annaly and Breifne. These ancient Gaelic territories of the O’Reillys, O’Rourkes and O’Farrells, under English rule in the sixteenth century were, as Reid describes, “reimagined” under the county system as Cavan, Leitrim and Longford.

This book is an ambitious study of day-to-day life and events in the north midlands from the arrival of Neolithic man 6,000 years ago, through subsequent centuries of cultural, political, social and revolutionary upheaval.

But perish the thought that Out On Our Own is a heavy-duty academic work. Reid’s presentation of historical research is enlivened and made greatly entertaining by anecdotes, snippets of stories, local lore and sometimes quirky insights gathered from friends and neighbours and other sources during his decade-long research. Like any good storyteller, Reid starts at the beginning.

The book was partly inspired not only by great events but by the lingering impact of local lore and tradition: “Many years ago I was one of a small group of boys who were warned by “grown-ups” that it was not “lucky” to play games around the old ringfort in Duffy’s field behind Moyne National School in North Longford.” He is not alone in that regard.

Dolmens and ring forts may dominate our awareness - and fuel the myths and sense of unease which many have grown up with. Reid reminds us that in the landscape our Neolithic forebears also left us a rich physical heritage in stone circles, stone rows, cist graves, bullaun stones, cairns, court tombs, fulacht fia, wedge tombs and standing stones. Countless placenames, in spite of anglicisation, still owe their origins to the topographical description assigned to the area by early inhabitants.

Even now in the 21st century decisions on the direction of modern highways, or the reconfiguration of farmlands to serve modern agricultural needs, tend to leave the fairies undisturbed in their forts. The mysticism lies deep in all of us.

Reid opens his account of the great Gaelic monasteries – with a full chapter on that of Inchmore on Lough Gowna, near his home place- before the arrival of the great European orders whose fine monastic buildings still testify to their influence and power. But in one of his delightful segues, the author describes in detail the influence of Irish Catholic clergy, ministering to the diaspora across the globe.

Their influence in America is well known and confirmed by a fine illustration identifying the large number of dioceses established there by Irish clergy. Less celebrated perhaps is the influence in Australia of clergy from Cavan and Longford ministering to people transported from Ireland and Britain from the eighteenth century on, often for trivial “crimes” to provide workers for the colony. A table in the book lists draconian sentences handed down – including life imprisonment for stealing hay.

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Reid also identifies a priest from north Longford, home on leave after 26 years in Australia, including working in the harsh environment of the gold fields, who was shot in Dublin during the 1916 rising and who died at home shortly after. The story was shrouded in secrecy at the time for fear of reprisals against the family.

The effect on the people in the three ancient regions of every turbulent period in Irish history is subjected to Reid’s forensic research. Each of the 26 chapters deals with a period of fundamental change to the lives of the people and political structures, i.e the arrival of the Normans and wars with and among Celtic clans, the roles of the clan Chieftains in poetry and the arts, the enforced migration from Ulster to Leitrim and Longford, the brutal transportation young Cavan, Leitrim and Longford men and women to the Caribbean and Australia, the horrors of the famine in the regions and how the three counties fought well above their weight in the War of Independence.

Each chapter has an end note listing every source for the material used, which illustrates the impeccable research undertaken and provides access and guidance for further study.

Unlike the bored - or forewarned – schoolboys of the past, access to the richness of our heritage is now much more accessible, including to tourists from home and abroad thanks to Failte Ireland’s focus on Ireland’s “Hidden Heartlands”.

Local history groups have become active throughout the country, the welcome addition of local interpretative centres and museums such as those in Granard, Corlea, Fenagh and Ballyjamesduff among others are bringing the past alive again to new generations. Without the imperative for sunny days or long bicycle journeys!

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Out On Our Own, A History of the People and Places of Annaly and Breifne is a timely reminder of the richness of the heritage of the north midlands - and an engrossing read. It is available in local shops and newsagents and online at www.outonourown.ie, an ideal Christmas present.

James Larkin worked in the Longford Leader from 1956 until 1965. He was editor of the paper from 1962-1965.